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photo: APPLEBEE’S (CHART)
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Counting Calories
By JULIE JARGON Restaurants from Applebee’s to Starbucks are pushing new low-calorie menu items in an effort to attract customers who say they want healthier options. Chain restaurants, traditionally known for peddling fatty food and sugary drinks, hope that offering healthier fare will give them a competitive advantage, especially with the prospect of a federal nutrition labeling law looming. A recent study found that when Starbucks began posting calorie information in its New York City stores in April 2008, as required by city law, customers began switching to the lower-calorie offerings. Starbucks this year rolled out new “skinny” versions of some of its popular lattes as well as low-calorie panini sandwiches and snacks. The company also began distributing brochures containing calorie information for all of its food products in U.S. stores. ‘MILLION-DOLLAR QUESTION’ The restaurant chains say the low-calorie shift was driven by customer demand rather than impending legislation. But providing calorie counts now will help them get ahead of a proposed federal law calling for bigger chains to post calorie information on their menus and menu boards. The risk in introducing low-calorie offerings is that customers might think they’ll taste bland. “The million-dollar question is if they can do it without sacrificing taste and quality,” says Pat Conroy, vice chairman at consulting firm Deloitte. “If restaurants can figure out how to do that, there’s no reason why the general populace will not embrace it.” Applebee’s Neighborhood Grill & Bar is well aware of the perception hurdles. The chain of more than 1,900 U.S. restaurants dubbed its healthier new choices the “Unbelievably Great Tasting and Under 550 Calories” menu. It recently introduced five items—including grilled shrimp with island rice (280 calories), a spicy shrimp and pasta dish (500 calories), and asiago peppercorn steak (390 calories)—after consumer studies revealed that customers wanted healthier choices. “We wanted to offer five very different items at portion sizes that don’t make you feel like, ‘Where’s the other half of my meal?’” says Applebee’s President Mike Archer. DIET BUSTERS Taco Bell recently introduced low-calorie options as part of its new “Drive-Thru Diet Menu.” Its new Fresco Crunchy Taco contains 150 calories, vs. the 200 calories of the Crunchy Taco Supreme; its new Fresco Burrito Supreme with steak has 330 calories, 50 fewer than the standard steak Burrito Supreme. Taco Bell also plans to place calorie information on all menu boards at company-owned restaurants. The changes aren’t going to eliminate restaurants’ biggest diet busters. Taco Bell will still offer volcano nachos—made with jalapenos and packing 1,000 calories and 62 grams of fat—and Starbucks will still offer a 16-ounce double chocolate-chip frappuccino blended creme drink at 510 calories and 19 grams of fat. At Applebee’s, customers can still order the A1 Steakhouse burger with its 1,190 calories, or the three-cheese chicken penne pasta, which has 1,300 calories. Bob Goldin, executive vice president at restaurant consulting firm Technomic says he sees a “mixed message” in the low-calorie drive, because restaurants in the past year have been promoting “value” dishes, which usually connote large portions and fattening foods. “It’s better that they’re doing this than doing nothing,” Mr. Goldin says, “but personally I think the industry still has to take more responsibility for health and nutrition.”
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